Learning to Turn

A place to ask any questions you may have from the Beginnier's Corner articles, or other beginner's questions

Moderators: Joe Herrmann, Robert Gulley

Learning to Turn

Postby Robert Gulley » Sun May 28, 2006 4:40 am

Hi All -
As moderator of this area of the forum and as someone who is interested in beginner's problems, I was curious what is (or was) the most difficult aspect of turning for you? In other words, what techniques, proceedures, elements of turning do you find consistently difficult, or if you finally overcame them, what things were most troublesome?
"Keep those shavings flying!"

Robert Gulley
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Postby N_Addy » Mon May 29, 2006 5:46 pm

After reading this I immediately thought back to my early days and how intimidating I found the mechanics of hollowing. Which tool to use, dealing with torque (ripping the piece off the chuck), getting rid of that little nub in the center without leaving grooves or rings, and sanding the hollow (always a challenge for me). Most of these I've finally managed to overcome with experience but there have been some hard lessons along the way.

Another aspect that I always found challenging was simply and safely holding the work piece throughout the various steps of completing a bowl. It would be interesting to see a survey of various methods of chucking. Jam chucking, donut chucking, vac chucking, tenons, recesses, etc. Even to this day I use the tenon method to hollow a piece but then struggle to find a way to remove the foot (or at least clean it up). If I can't grip the rim (externally or internally) without damage I usually try to use a donut chuck or jam chuck. The problem then becomes one of getting the piece exactly centered. What tricks are there to handle this?

Sorry, I probably gave you too much in a single post!
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Postby Robert Gulley » Mon May 29, 2006 11:10 pm

All good issues you raised, and common problems for us all. As for final turning on a hollow form I think a jam chuck works best - one that fits into the mouth of the hollow form, with masking tape or foam covering the outside of the chuck where the lip meets the wood. Held in a scroll chuck and turned, this ensures a round jam chuck, and unless the mouth of the hollow form has already warped, you should get a perfect fit.
"Keep those shavings flying!"

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Postby La truciolara » Sun Jun 11, 2006 4:30 am

When I started… some 48 years ago, I didn’t even know there was a fibre direction to take into consideration.
Fortunately I didn’t have problems about the position of the tool on the lathe as I could learn just looking at what and how others were doing
http://www.la-truciolara.com/
my woodturning paradise
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beginner issues

Postby xhellabentx » Thu Dec 13, 2007 9:44 am

local wood suppliers & turners and resources ,rough turning,drying,finish turning ,hollowing , coring , finding a mentor
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beginner issues

Postby xhellabentx » Thu Dec 13, 2007 9:46 am

workholding and marketing
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Postby Robert Gulley » Thu Dec 13, 2007 10:43 am

What about workholding has been tough for you?
"Keep those shavings flying!"

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Postby jabt » Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:21 am

I still consider myself a beginner even though I started turning about two years ago. I haven't spent as much time turning as I want to.

The hardest part for me is correct sharpening geometry and tool techniques.
John Abt
Hanover, MD
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Postby Robert Gulley » Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:08 pm

John
These two issues are what most people struggle with as they learn - so you're definitely not alone. Tool technique comes through practice and by watching/learning from others where possible. As for the sharpening, your tool shape is not as significant as your actual tool sharpness. While a lot of people fuss over which angle cuts best, micro-bevels or not, steep vs. shallow bevels, the real secret is learning one style/shape inside and out while making sure your tool is extra sharp. I say "extra sharp" because most people try to make their tools last longer than they should, either because they don't like to sharpen or they find sharpening hard. A good jig system should make sharpening repeatable and consistent, freeing you up to focus on cutting technique.
My advice to my new turning students is to sharpen more than you think you need - basically just touching up the edge frequently rather than waiting until the tool edge gets dull.
When you are a lot more experienced you will be able to change tool geometries as you experiment with different grinds/shapes etc. For now, stay somewhere in the middle of what is considered standard, and just become comfortable with the tools. This will really pay off in the long run.
Cheers!
"Keep those shavings flying!"

Robert Gulley
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Re: Learning to Turn

Postby dbleyepatches » Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:41 pm

I am brand new to turning and to this site. I own a Rockwell 46-111 lathe and some extra cheap Craftsman tools. I am learning by myself and do not have the luxury of having an experienced turner that I know in my area (thats why I am going to do more reading and learning here).

By far the most difficult thing that I have attempted in turning is using the skew. At times I can get it to cut beautifully leaving the wood almost polished and other times it wants to grab and blow chunks of wood all over my garage. I did purchase the wolverine sharening system which seems to be getting the tools incredibly sharp, so I am sure that it is a user problem more than anything.
"Luck is when preparation and opportunity meet."- Andrew Wilkow
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Re: Learning to Turn

Postby Robert Gulley » Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:53 pm

Hi!
The skew is a really tough tool to master - there are even pros who just don't use a skew. Several good videos/DVD are available by Alan Lacer or Mike Darlow that you may want to check out if you have not already seen one or both. Most common problem, and I suspect this is the case with the set of tools that you have, is that the skew you are using is too small. A rule of thumb (and it is a good one) is that the skew should only use 1/2 of it's width for normal cutting. This means that as you angle the skew to the proper cutting angle, as it cuts you should only see shavings coming down the bottom half of the tool. If the entire tool width is only 1/2 inch (which is a common tool size), that means you only have 1/4 inch of room to work with in the cut. The slightest miscalculation or twitch of movement and the long point is likely to catch. If the tool is at least 1 inch or wider, you have much more room for movement that will still not produce a catch. I have taught a number of students who have brought in craftsman tools and they are fine, except for the small skew - so I am willing to bet that is the likely culprit.
I would try to add a large skew to my inventory if I were you, and I think you will be pleasantly surprised by its ease of use in comparison to the smaller one. Hope this helps.

Cheers!
"Keep those shavings flying!"

Robert Gulley
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