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Ask Dale
Dale Nish Dale Nish is one of the world’s best known woodturners and writers. His three books (Creative Woodturning, Artistic Woodturning, and Master Woodturners) have influenced a whole generation of turners. His broad knowledge of turning and more than 30 years as a teacher make him a master of most of the tools and techniques used today.

Dale was instrumental in starting the renowned Utah Woodturning Symposium held every year in Provo, Utah. He is a frequent demonstrator there and at a number of other influential symposiums.
Ask Dale is a regular column featured in Woodturning Design. Listed below are (summarized) questions from the issue. Click on the issue number to view the issue page with complete questions and Dale's answers.
Issue 18

Summer 2008
Proper technique using scrapers without getting some tearout • Best speeds for sanding • Should one continue to develop skills with an out-of-fashion tool with which I am comfortable, or should one abandon it and learn to use a skew chisel? • Learning about holding fixtures, specifically methods of holding the front and reverse sides of plate/platters.
Issue 17

Spring 2008
Using a scraper to turn stave bowls • What is the best way to stop “bleed-through” on woods such as padauk and holly, and ebony and maple? • Recommendations as to the best way to correct an old tool rest that is very rough as the tools were sliding along it • Could you please explain when it is best to use vacuum chucking and how I would determine the maximum weight the technique will support?
Issue 16

Winter 2008
The different strengths and weaknesses of spindle gouges, (“regular”, “Continental” , “European”, “German”) and how to decide what to use without buying one of each and trying them out? • Suggestions on removing a faceplate • Sharpening tools on a belt sander vs wheel? • Bushing sizes and dressing a wheel
Issue 15

Fall 2007
I frequently have tearout on the inside end grain. I need suggestions on preventing the tearout or how to best get rid of it if it does happen. • Is there any trick or technique to finding and preserving alignment other than buying a more expensive machine? • I have a set of step-down pulleys with the following diameters: 3-1/2", 3", 2-1/4", and 1-1/2". Is it possible to calculate the lathe speed with this information? • I am having problems with the sanding discs separating from the backing while sanding. What do you recommend as the best lathe RPM for power sanding to prevent this from happening?
Issue 14

Summer 2007
What is the primary distinction between a bowl gouge and a spindle gouge? • Is there anything I can do to prevent checking once work on the blank has begun? • What is the best way to remove and separate the turning from the tape without damage? • Does oil create problems with finish?
Issue 12

Winter
2007
What is the proper way to use a drill chuck for drilling a hole on the lathe? • What is the best way to remove and separate the turning from the double-faced tape without damage? • What do round tool rests have over the traditional flat ones? • Can you explain the technique for applying oil to torn grain area?
Issue 11

Fall
2006
Do beading tools actually work satisfactorily for making beads or would I be better off becoming proficient with either a skew or a spindle gouge? • With all the different types of abrasives on the market, which would be the recommended one to use for sanding my turnings? •There is some debate about grinding skews. Should they be ground with a slight hollow or is a flat grind better? Should the end be flat or curved? • I was given a nice burl but have noticed that there is sawdust coming from it, which I assume means it’s infested with some sort of critter. What is the best way to kill the little buggers?
Issue 10

Summer 2006
I am looking for a quick, easy, durable finish that can be applied to projects directly on the lathe. Any suggestions? • I have an opportunity to purchase a number of 3" aluminum faceplates for my lathe. Will these be substantial enough to turn large bowl blanks, or should I save my money and purchase steel ones instead? • Someone offered me a large spalted maple blank, but I am hesitant to accept it. I am concerned not only with the potential respiratory problems, but also about the possibility that the blank might fracture while turning. Is spalted wood worth the bother? • I see a lot of newer tools advertised with aluminum shot-filled handles. Are these handles better than the old-fashioned wooden ones?

Issue 9

Spring
2006

I used to finish most of my projects on the lathe until I noticed that my scroll chuck jaws were becoming increasingly hard to move because of all the gunk between the jaws and other parts. Is there any hope for this chuck? Can I take the chuck entirely apart to clean it and, if so, how do I go about it?  • I have a “reversing” feature on my lathe, which allows me to change its direction of spin. Short of sanding, is this a practical feature? How safe is it to turn “backwards”? • I have read recently about lathe duplicators on some turning forums and am intrigued about using one. Are they efficient and easy to set up? Will I get a good finish off the lathe? • Should I bolt my lathe to the floor?
Issue 8

Winter
2006
How do I determine if the lathe is at the correct height for me? What is the best way to either raise or lower the lathe if necessary? • I have contemplated wearing gloves, but I don’t know if they are safe. Are they? • What type of routine maintenance should I perform on my grinding wheel, and specifically what should I watch for? How can I tell when it is time to replace the wheel? • Can you provide a simple explanation of what “negative rake scraping” is and its benefits?
Issue 7

Fall
2005
Is there a point when a bowl blank becomes too large to turn safely on a chuck and requires the use of a faceplate? What type of screws do you recommend, and is there any formula to determine their length? • Is using dry, seasoned wood best when learning to turn spindles or will “green” wood work better? Is there a particular species of wood that you favor for beginners? • What would you suggest that I start out an 11-year old on—small bowls, etc., or should I teach her to turn spindles first? • My spur drive got stuck in the headstock of my lathe. How can I prevent this from happening in the future, and what is the easiest way to free it if it happens again?
Issue 6

Summer 2005
What kind of wood should I use to make tool handles? What is the best way to drill the hole in the handle, and how should I lock the tool in place? • How does one determine the proper wall thickness of a wooden bowl in relation to diameter? • Is it best to use a hardwood when making a glue block or can I use softwood? What is the best adhesive with which to attach the glue block? • Cyanoacrylate Glue: Is it best to store the glue in the freezer or refrigerator after opening the container? Can I successfully glue oily woods like cocobolo with this glue? What about long-term glue-ups? Does the adhesive have longevity?
Issue 5

Spring
2005
Am I better off buying used or should I go out and buy one of the “sets” that I see offered in the different catalogs? What would you suggest as a basic set of starter tools that would help me to make table legs in addition to bowls? • Just what do catalog steel numbers mean, and how can I tell what’s best for me? • Grinders–slow/fast, wheel materials and grits ... Do you have a suggestion? • Is there a speed that I can just set my lathe at and forget about it, or do I have to go through some complex formula to determine this?