I am not aware of any “formula or recipe” for drying wood in the microwave oven. However, information is available on the Internet, but suggested procedures are quite variable. In general, it seems that the best results are obtained when roughed-out bowls, with a wall thickness of about 1", are turned from green wood and “dried” in the microwave.

Since every species of wood is distinctive, and will react a little differently, use caution, particularly when starting. Trial-and-error is a good teacher, but I would suggest initially trying lower settings with shorter periods of time. The microwave process dries wood from the inside out, and we can’t see what is happening in the inside of the wood; so, I would advise lower settings, short periods of microwaving, and longer times between cycles. The wood should feel hot when it is removed from the microwave. Some woods are more prone to checking, with dense, close-grained woods more difficult to dry than open-grained woods, such as ash or elm.

Place the bowl in a plastic bag. This will help keep the oven clean. Set the microwave to a medium power, set the timer to three minutes, and turn on the microwave. Watch the bag, and when it fills with steam, turn off the microwave and remove the bag from the oven. The wood should be hot. Place a paper towel over the wood and let it set for about five minutes until it is cool. Repeat the cycle. When the wood feels dry after the cooling period, set it aside for a day or two, and let the piece return to its equalibrium moisture content (EMC).

Most pieces will take at least three cycles, while thicker pieces may need several more sessions in the microwave. Oven drying will not hurt the wood, but is a waste of time and electricity.

Drying wood in the round is always a problem, whether it be small tree trunks or branch wood. Depending on the wood, it can usually be dried in the round up to 6" in diameter. Beyond that, shrinkage frequently causes vertical checks. Are small checks acceptable or does each piece have to be flawless? Some woods are quite easy to dry in the round, usually open-grained woods, such as ash, elm, and catalpa. Other close-grained woods, such as maple and fruitwoods, are more difficult to dry in the round. I have also found that dead standing trees can provide good round wood, particularly if they have been dead for a year or two. Wood for a lamp project does not have to be kiln dried to 6%–8% moisture content. For a lamp project, moisture content can be from 15% to 20%, and still make a nice lamp without cracking. Just be sure the end grain is well sealed—top and bottom.

Another option is to cut off a section of a large log to get the required vertical dimension, then cut the number of pieces needed, being sure to keep the pith out of the blocks. These blocks could be circled out on a bandsaw or rough-cut with a chain saw.

Although most high-speed steel lathe gouges are machined from round bar stock and have long blades, this does not mean they are designed to reach long distances over the tool rest. The tables below offer recommended maximum reach distances for each size and type of gouge. Exceeding these recommended distances may result in a broken tool and serious injury.

The length of a tool handle should be at least five times the maximum distance you intend to reach beyond the tool rest. This will ensure you have the needed leverage for proper tool control. For example, for a maximum reach of 3" over the rest, your handle should be at least 15" in length.