The “regular” spindle gouges manufactured by Henry Taylor, Crown, Sorby, Hamlet, and others are the popular gouges promoted in the tool catalogs. Most are manufactured from high-speed steel rod, into which the flute is machined. In general, these tools are quite similar in specifications, steel, and price. They always have shallow, rounded flutes and long fingernail ends, which allow most cuts commonly used in spindle work to be accomplished.

A variation of the regular spindle gouge is the detail gouge which is quite similar to the regular spindle gouge, being made from the same steel but the flute is a little more shallow and the detail gouge may be a little more “user-friendly” when cutting beads and coves. The shallow flute permits a smoother cut and the heavier cross section gives less vibration due to there being more metal under the flute. The gouge can be used to reach further over the tool rest without causing excessive vibrations during the cut. It is especially useful for cutting deep and narrow coves.

Another spindle gouge, which can be called Continental, European, or German, is a gouge which has been hammer-forged by hand. Forging aligns the “grain” of the steel, resulting in an exceptionally strong tool. The shallow design and rounded bottom make these gouges ideal for light roughing and spindle turning. These hammer-forged M2 steel tools are ideal for turning hard or dense materials such as antler or stabilized wood, because they have the weight and mass necessary to create smooth, consistent cuts on different materials.

I picked up a Powermatic 90 from a school sale a while back and have a problem with it. Specifically, I can’t get the faceplate off. I have tried penetrating oil and heat. Any suggestions? I assume it should turn counterclockwise, is that correct?

Lathes which have been out of service for a period of time, particularly if they have been stored in an area where moisture or high humidity are present, may have the faceplate “frozen” to the spindle due to the cast iron faceplate rusting to the spindle. It’s okay to leave a faceplate on the spindle, but it should be left loose and not tight to the shoulder of the spindle. To remove a “frozen” faceplate, liberally apply penetrating oil, such as WD-40, and let it penetrate for several hours—overnight would be even better. Then lock the spindle securely, place the faceplate wrench on the faceplate, and use a piece of pipe as a “cheater bar.” Slide the pipe down the wrench handle and apply firm, steady pressure. With pressure on the faceplate, tap the faceplate firmly with a hammer. Be sure the pressure is counterclockwise or you will be making it tighter. With steady pressure and a few firm taps with a hammer, the faceplate should come loose. If it doesn’t, exert more pressure and tap a little harder or...“just joking”...get a bigger hammer. Be careful, and don’t break the wrench! The factory wrench is cast iron and will break fairly easily.

A pipe wrench will also do the job, but the jaws will leave marks on the faceplate. But by the time you read this, you will probably have the faceplate off anyway! To prevent future problems with removing faceplates or chucks, I would recommend installing a plastic No-Lock spindle washer available from most turning supply houses. This will make faceplates and chucks much easier to remove.

I’ve had the worst time trying to learn how to sharpen my tools on my bench grinder, so I took the lazy way out and now sharpen my tools on a belt sander at work. I guess I’ve had what I consider extremely good results, because I have not experienced any problems with bluing of the steel or overheating. But I figure there must be a reason everyone uses grinding wheels instead. What is the downside of this practice?

I just purchased a 1" x 6" white Norton wheel online and it arrived with bushings that are only 5/8" wide. Is this normal, or should they be closer to 1" wide? Secondly, when you dress a wheel, do you keep the corners square or round them over a bit?