A 3" faceplate will handle work three to four times its diameter, so you could safely turn work from 9" to 12" in diameter, assuming the flange is at least 1/4" thick. The faceplate should also have at least six holes which will accept a No. 10 or No. 12 sheet metal screw. The screw you select should penetrate the wood 3/4" to 1". The suggested numbers I am referring to will work for a reasonably in-balance turning block no thicker than 6". The faceplate must be seated on a flat surface with the flange in full contact with the wood. Be sure all screws are tight. This setup will work best if the turning block is a uniform thickness throughout to help prevent wobble and imbalance. If the blank is not equal thickness, mark the side of the block which will be the bottom of the bowl, and be sure the bottom is down against the bandsaw table when the blank is cut into round. This will help balance the block.

After the blank is mounted on the lathe, bring the tailstock with a revolving center into position and advance the center into firm contact with the blank. This will reduce vibration while the first cuts are being made. Start the lathe at a low speed, gradually increasing the speed as the blank becomes round. If excessive vibration occurs, reduce the speed.

Spalting is the result of the natural decay process and involves certain fungi and moisture. When we talk about spalted wood, we usually mean wood with the very attractive zone lines, usually black or brown which may appear during the decaying process. Spalted wood can be very attractive, even showing spectacular patterns and coloration. These lines appear where the fungus has ceased growing. It is also interesting that these zone lines may be made by different fungus species, and some fungus may not produce zone lines at all. However, if spalted wood is cut at a time when the zone lines are prominent and attractive and the wood is sound without soft or punky spots, it can be a woodturner’s treasure. Check the flat grain areas with a sharp instrument such as a knife blade, scratch awl, or screwdriver by seeing how the point penetrates the wood. If the wood seems uniform in density with few softer spots, it should turn well. The soft spots can be hardened with the application of thin cyanoacrylate glue during the turning process. If the wood tests as sound, or basically so, there should not be a problem with the piece splitting during the turning, assuming the blank is free from cracks or other defects.

As far as respiratory problems when working with spalted wood are concerned, be sure to use a good quality dust mask or respirator. The same advice applies to turning any wood. Dust is not good for your lungs, and it is not a good thing to bring spores from spalted wood into your lungs where there is a moist warm atmosphere to possibly reactivate them.

However, as we walk through the woods or work in the yard, we breathe in untold numbers of spores, many of which can cause decay in wood. Typically this is not a problem, but if you have a reaction, such as a skin rash, a breathing problem, or itching, stop using the material, whether it be spalted wood or any other kind of wood. A friend of mine was wearing a dust mask and was sanding cocobolo when he had a reaction which put him in the emergency room for treatment. The doctor told him that, if he had not been wearing a dust mask, the reaction may have killed him.

In conclusion, I would gladly accept the spalted blank, test it and if it passes, turn it. This may make a wonderful one-of-a-kind turning. If you don’t want to turn it, send it to the editor. He will gladly use it!

I checked a number of tool catalogs and there is only one maker of aluminum shot-filled handles, but there are a lot of steel and aluminum handled tools offered to the woodturner. Makers of metal handles include Glaser Tools, Hamlet, Kelton Industries, Oneway, Robert Sorby, Trent Bosch, and Woodcut. Of these, only the Glaser Tools can be weighted with shot. Some tool handles are steel, others aluminum. The consensus is that aluminum handles vibrate less than steel, and steel handles may be a little cheaper.

However, the advantages of metal handles include:
1.) Inter-changeable blades, with the ability to control the length of the tool protruding from the handle;
2.) When a tool wears out, you can replace the tool and not need to purchase a new handle;
3.) One handle can be used for most of the tools, if you don’t mind the inconvenience of changing handles; and
4.) Glaser tools can be loaded with shot, making the handle weight adjustable.

The down side of metal handles is that they are cold in the hand, handle configuration may not be as comfortable as wood, and they are more expensive than wood.